What makes the category of curls so interesting is that there’s not just one type. In fact, there are nine, spanning 2A through to 4C, which can be divided up depending on their key curl personality traits.
Here, we’re focusing our attention on type 4 hair, which is the wiggliest of all of the curl types and therefore referred to as coily hair rather than curly. The 4 number indicates that you have coily hair (compared to 2 which is wavy and 3 which is curly) and the letter attached depends on how wide the coils are. So type 4A coils will be the widest, and type 4C curls the narrowest.
Read on for everything you need to know about how to care for type 4 hair, for your most gorgeous coils yet.
Type 4 hair can be divided into three categories, each with a slightly different pattern and texture. Most people have more than one curl pattern across their heads, so don’t be surprised if you identify with more than one. For example, you could have type 4C hair on the lower layers, and 4B on the top. Type 4 hair can be broken down into:
4A coils are very small in diameter – think the circumference of a crochet hook or knitting needle. They’re so tightly wound that they almost curl in on themselves and have a very clearly defined ‘S’ shape. As they are very narrow, the coils can be quite fragile.
Unlike 4A coils which have a spiral ‘S’ shape, type 4B hair has more of a zig-zag pattern to it, like the letter ‘Z’. They are even narrower than 4A coils in diameter, which creates a high-volume look, and you can see the definition between them.
Type 4C hair has very little definition when it comes to the separation between your coils, but if you look closely, you’ll see that they have a spiral shape. Of all the different curl types, 4C hair is the densest and has the most spring to it, with the potential to look up to 75% shorter when it’s dry versus when it’s wet.
Coily hair is a beautiful and enviable curl type to have, but does need a little extra attention and care to keep it at its best. These are the things to consider when styling and treating type 4 hair:
Breakage. Type 4 hair is incredibly fragile as the strands themselves are quite thin, and the tight shape makes them more prone to snapping on the bends. To avoid this, heat styling should always be kept to a minimum and at low temperatures, and the hair should only ever be brushed when wet using a wide-tooth comb or bendy-bristled brush;
Identifying your exact curl type is the first step to finding the perfect hair care routine for you! Read our guide "Discovering curl types and hair styles".
Shrinkage. Shrinkage is a term commonly associated with coily hair, and refers to the way the hair springs upwards when dry, making it appear much shorter than it really is. The good news is that shrinkage is a sign of healthy hair with plenty of elasticity, but if you don’t like the way it looks, it is possible to elongate and lengthen your spirals with the help of your diffuser;
High porosity. Hair porosity refers to our strand's ability to retain water. If it has low porosity, it’s very good at holding on to water and may take a long time to dry, whereas if it’s highly porous, it will dry quickly and can feel crispy and brittle. Due to the tight ‘S’ or ‘Z’ shape of type 4C coils, the cuticles that coat our hair aren’t able to lay flat, leaving gaps that allow moisture to escape – meaning your hair is likely to be highly porous and therefore feel drier;
Lack of definition. Especially with type 4C hair, the coils are so densely packed that it’s hard to see their exact pattern and differentiate between them. This can look amazing, but it’s down to personal preference if you prefer to style your hair in a way that gives your curls more definition.
Styling, drying and maintaining type 4 hair is easy when you know how. Here’s everything you need to know, including how to use the best diffuser tool for the job…
Type 4 hair is lucky enough to have plenty of natural volume, so there’s no need to shampoo with your head upside down like you might with type 2 or 3 curls. Instead, massage a shampoo that has been specially formulated for dry, curly hair into your scalp with your head upwards, focusing on the roots rather than the lengths – they’ll still get the benefits of your shampoo as you rinse it out. Ideally, the water should be set to a tepid temperature – too hot and you run the risk of damaging your hair. Next, apply a rich conditioner or curl mask (the tighter your coils, the more moisture you’ll need) and use this opportunity while the hair is slippery and coated to gently detangle. Use either a soft brush with bristles that bend and flex with your hair pattern, or a wide-tooth comb that will travel through the hair without snagging or snapping. Rinse your conditioner or mask thoroughly, and try not to touch your hair too much in the process – it’s at its most fragile when it’s wet.
Taking the time to prep the hair before drying will help ensure that your coils are as happy and healthy as possible, and that you get the finished look you’re after. It’s not a compulsory step, and the high porosity of your hair might mean that you don’t need to, but you can start by using a soft, microfibre towel to gently squeeze some of the excess water out of your hair. Then, apply your favourite styling products. As type 4C hair is naturally dry, we’d recommend cream-based ones that will nourish as well as provide definition and hold. Alternatively, you can layer hydrating serums between your other styling products.
The best approach for drying your type 4 hair with a Diffon diffuser will depend on your exact curl type. Diffon Supreme is an innovative hot air diffuser. It creates soft and defined, voluminous curls by combining a diffuser and a hairdryer in a single tool. Follow the right how-to for your coil pattern:
How to dry type 4A hair:
Select your chosen heat and speed settings on your Diffon diffuser.
Begin by drying the roots, tilting your head from side to side as you hold your Diffon diffuser directly onto the scalp. The more you move your head, the more movement you’ll create at the crown.
Next, focus on your lengths. Hold your head down with the tool upwards, so that you can place your strands inside the head of the diffuser.
Once your coils are mostly dry, turn the heat and temperature settings down and direct the airflow at the roots, followed by the lengths, scrunching the hair to really exaggerate the shape.
Finish with the Ultra Gentle function to fix your finished style in place.
How dry type 4B hair:
Set your diffuser to the lowest heat and speed settings.
Hover diffuse your hair to gently dry, holding your Diffon diffuser around 15cm away from your head. To reduce fluffiness, resist the urge to touch or play with your hair.
If you want to elongate your coils and counteract shrinkage, direct the air at your roots and use your fingers to gently pull your strands downwards.
For very porous hair, you may find that it dries quickly on the outside, but not on the inner layers, so carefully lift in sections to dry the scalp and make sure you’re not leaving any damp areas behind.
Once your hair is fully dry, use the Ultra Gentle function to set your coils.
How to dry type 4C hair:
Before you even pick up the diffuser, take a moment to shape your strands and style your coils exactly how you want them.
Set your Diffon Diffuser to the lowest speed setting and the Ultra Gentle temperature to ensure minimal damage to your strands.
Using the hover diffusing technique, start drying the hair by holding the tool around 15cm away from your head. It’s best to begin at the roots before making your way down towards the lengths and ends.
For very porous hair, you may find that it dries quickly on the outside, but not on the inner layers, so carefully lift in sections to dry the scalp and make sure you’re not leaving any damp areas behind.
Finish by applying a little nourishing oil to banish frizz and add shine.