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Diffusing: the best drying techniques for every type of curl | Bellissima Italia

Written by Bellissima Italia | Apr 11, 2024

Not sure how to use a curly hair diffuser? You’ve come to the right place.

Curly hair is high maintenance, it is true that styling this hair type requires more consideration than simply hopping out of the shower post-shampoo and getting straight on with your day. 

Our hair is made up of different kinds of bonds, one of which is hydrogen bonds that break down when our strands are wet and reform when they’re dry. What this means is that drying your hair is your opportunity to set these bonds in your chosen style until you wash your hair next – so you want to get it right. Using a diffuser on curly hair is the perfect way to ensure your spirals are at their bouncy best until the next time you lather up. 

Read on to find out exactly why a hair diffuser is the best styling tool for all types of curls and waves, plus how to find the right diffuser technique for your curl pattern, from 2A to 4C

Why should I choose a hair diffuser for my curly hair?

To make the most of your curls, you should be using a diffuser to dry and style them.  If you’re yet to be converted, allow us to explain exactly what makes a diffuser so brilliant… 

It encourages the hair’s natural curl pattern 

If you have 2A to 2C hair, then you’ll need all the help you can get to give your waves texture and movement, and a hair diffuser will both enhance their shape and add volume. They’ll naturally drop between shampoos as gravity pulls them down, so you want to get them as tight as possible on wash day. 

For 3A to 3C hair, the focus is on bounce, but also definition, so your curls don’t just look like one big mass. Diffusing the hair will help you to separate your spirals

As for 4A to 4C hair, depending on your personal preference you may want to encourage shrinkage or avoid it. Both options can be achieved by either slowly diffusing close to the scalp or using the nodules to stretch out your coils. 

It’s better for the hair 

The spiral shape of curly hair means it’s especially susceptible to breaking at the bends. The tighter your curl pattern, the more brittle and fragile your strands will be. There’s lots of advice out there that encourages curly-haired folk to leave their hair to dry naturally, but keeping it in this state for long periods isn’t great – especially if you’re going to sleep with it still sopping. Even the friction between your hair and the pillow can cause unsuspecting breakage while you snooze, leading to split, fluffy ends – not the recipe for a good hair day. 

They have been designed for your hair type 

The unique features of a diffuser like a wide surface area, finger-like nodules and a perforated grid have all been created with curly hair in mind. The generous surface area is so you can dry large sections at once, and to enable you to place the hair directly onto the diffuser. The nodules are added to tease out and separate curls, while the perforated grid is there to evenly balance the airflow so your strands aren’t being blown about in different directions. 

It’ll reduce frizz

Frizz forms when moisture enters the hair shaft, prematurely breaking down those hydrogen bonds we spoke about in the introduction and reverting hair to its pre-styled state. We want to stop this from happening, which is easier said than done as the composition of curly hair means it’s naturally as porous as a sieve. Using high heat and speeds will cause damage that makes frizz even worse, which is why a hair diffuser is a gentler, and more effective option than a traditional hairdryer.

Identifying your exact curl type is the first step to finding the perfect hair care routine for you!  Read our guide "Discovering curl types and hair styles"


Diffusing: The best techniques

There are many different ways to use a diffuser, and the right approach will depend on your specific curl type. 

If you have 2A hair….

What does 2A hair look like? 2A is a relatively loose curl pattern with soft waves. Often this curl type starts off straight at the crown, with movement only kicking in from the mid-lengths. 

How should you use your diffuser on 2A curls? As this curl type is more wavy than curly, it needs a fair bit of persuasion to get the pattern tight and increase volume.  A good approach is what’s known as pixie diffusing, where you turn your head upside down and gather sections of hair onto the surface area of the diffuser. From there, you lift the diffuser and hold it close to the scalp, leaving it in this position until that section is completely dry before moving on to the next one. 

If you have 2B hair…

What does 2B hair look like? 2B is your classic beachy wave, with a stretched-out ‘S’ shape that starts from the root.

How should you use your diffuser on 2B curls? Pixie diffusing, the technique we just chatted about for 2A hair, also works really well on 2B curls. If you want to add even more movement and texture to the hair for a super beachy look, keep moving your head in different directions. And, when you’re ready to flip it back to an upright position, use your fingers to tousle the roots and give them a good shake out. 

If you have 2C hair… 

What does 2C hair look like? 2C is still technically a wave, but the closest on the category 2 chart to a curl. The shape tends to be a defined ‘S’ shape, but one that’s relatively loose. 

How should you use your diffuser on 2C curls? Sitting between a curl and wave, 2C hair can be fluffy and prone to frizz. To keep this at a minimum, make sure you’re prepping the hair with the right taming and moisturising products before moving on to diffusing. Focus on diffusing with low-speed settings so that the hair isn’t being blown about too much, as this can create one fluffy cloud of wavy curls rather than the defined spirals we’re aiming for. 

If you have 3A hair…

What does 3A hair look like? 3A curls are wide and bouncy – think the kind of curls that someone might try to emulate with the help of a thick curling tong. As they’re not very tight, they tend to be less delicate than other curl types. 

How should you use your diffuser on 3A curls? To make your 3A curls look as polished as possible, it’s all about making sure the finish is shiny and glossy. Diffusing will do this anyway as the change in temperature from hot to cold seals the cuticle and maximises sheen, but you can take it even further by finishing with a cold shot if the settings on your tool allow. Embrace the fact that your curls are naturally wide in diameter, rather than tightly wound.

If you have 3B hair… 

What does 3B hair look like? 3B curls are your text-book ringlets and what most people would picture when they think of curly hair.

How should you use your diffuser on 3B curls? Lucky for you, 3B hair is one of the easiest curl types to manage, as it naturally wants to look exactly as you’d imagine a curl to look. Put your hair in the diffuser plate upside down and let the magic happen!

If you have 3C hair…

What does 3C hair look like? 3C is the most tightly wound of the category 3 curls. This can make it look like you have more hair than someone with 3A curls, as the hair is wound into smaller, tighter sections. 

How should you use your diffuser on 3C curls? For these curls, it's advisable to incorporate a varied drying technique for optimal results. Start by drying with your head upside down, and then switch to an upright position with your head tilted to each side, creating volume. 3C curls naturally have impressive volume, so focusing on upside-down drying you will gain extra volume. Also, prioritize achieving maximum definition while ensuring thorough drying, which can be challenging given the dense curl pattern. Take a systematic approach, working through small sections of your hair. Move the diffuser in circular motions, allowing the nodules to deeply penetrate and enhance your strands' definition.

If you have 4A hair… 

What does 4A hair look like? 4A is the point where curly hair becomes coily hair. It can either have a very tight ‘S’ shape or a looser ‘Z’ shape – or, even a combination of both. 

How should you use your diffuser on 4A curls? With 4A curls, it’s worth taking the time to separate and shape your hair when it’s wet from the shower and you’ve just applied your chosen products. From here, you can hover diffuse – a technique that involves holding the diffuser slightly away from the hair rather than directly onto it. It’s a slightly more time-consuming approach, as the hair isn’t exposed to as much heat or airflow, but will prevent you from roughing up your strands and reward you with a neater finish.

If you have 4B hair… 

What does 4B hair look like? 4B is your true ‘Z’ shaped coil, with a distinctive zig-zag pattern. This shape allows the strands to sit very close together, adding plenty of volume. 

How should you use your diffuser on 4B curls? 4B hair is naturally blessed with a generous amount of body which makes it look thicker, but the Z shape can also condense it and cause it to appear shorter than it actually is. If you want to maximise length, try a technique called stretch diffusing, where you wiggle the finger-like noddles of the diffuser into your hair close to the root and gently pull down through the lengths. This will elongate your curls, but remember to be gentle to avoid any unnecessary tugging or pulling. 

If you have 4C hair… 

What does 4C hair look like? 4C is the tightest type of coil and is so well-wound that there’s often not a huge amount of definition between the strands.

How should you use your diffuser on 4C curls? 4C curls are the most delicate curl type and therefore need to be treated with extra care. Before you start diffusing, make sure you pamper them with nourishing styling products that seal moisture into the strands so they don’t dry out between washes. Once you pick up your diffuser, it’s really important to stick to low-heat and low-temperature settings to avoid causing unnecessary damage. Depending on your chosen style, you may either want to hover diffuse to minimise heat exposure and maximise shrinkage or stretch diffuse to elongate your curls. It’s important to note that shrinkage is a good sign and shows that your strands are healthy, springy and elastic.

Bellissima Italia Diffon

Whatever your curl type, the Bellissima Italia Diffon Supreme is the best tool for the job. Diffon Supreme is powered by a purposely gentle system to minimise heat damage and feature a perforated grid and 12 long fingers to carefully enhance the shape and elasticity of your curls. Plus, it is ergonomically designed for easy and intuitive use with all possible curly hair diffuser techniques.