There are few things more frustrating than leaving the house with sleek, perfectly tamed curls, only to arrive at your destination to find they’re now fluffy and five times the size. Frizz is often considered an unavoidable side-effect of having curly hair, but that doesn’t have to be the case.
With the help of a dedicated diffuser for curly hair (rather than a standard hairdryer that’s been designed with straight strands in mind) and the right combination of products, it’s actually very easy to achieve frizz-free hair.
Here we will be looking at the key culprits of frizz (spoiler: moisture plays a big role) as well as how you can counteract these both before and during the drying process.
Understanding the Causes of Frizzy Hair
There are lots of different internal and external factors that can cause hair to frizz, from the hair type you were born with to the environment you’re in and the way you treat your hair. Getting to grips with these will help you to enjoy more good hair days than bad. The key causes of frizzy hair are…
Hair Type
No matter your hair type, everyone’s strands are coated in cuticles that are designed to overlap neatly like tiles on a roof with no gaps between them. On straight hair, this structure is simple, but the bendy, ‘S’ and ‘Z’ shapes of wavy, curly, and coily hair make it harder for the cuticles to slot together.
This leaves natural gaps between the cuticles that moisture can escape through, leaving hair dry, dehydrated, and therefore more prone to frizz. It also means that water can penetrate the hair shaft easily, leading to fluffiness and an unwanted change in shape.
Porosity
In the context of hair, porosity refers to your strand's ability to absorb and hold onto moisture. For example, very porous hair will soak up water like a sponge, whereas hair with low porosity will be much less absorbent.
If your hair is very porous, this means that it will dry quite quickly, which, although sounds like a good thing on paper, often comes at the cost of a fluffy, frizzy finish as your thirsty strands reach out into the atmosphere in search of more moisture. The curlier your hair is, the naturally more porous it will be, and this can be made worse by things like excessive styling and heat exposure.
Humidity
When we wet our hair, a type of hair bond called a hydrogen bond is broken, causing your strands to revert to their pre-styled state.
When it’s very humid, either outside when it’s raining or very hot, or indoors in a steamy bathroom, then this influx of moisture in the atmosphere can be enough to break those bonds, bringing back the frizz you thought you’d banished when styling.
The curlier and more porous your hair, the more likely you are to be affected by humidity, which is why you might find that your friend’s hair stays perfectly smooth on a hot holiday while yours resembles Monica Geller.
Identifying your exact curl type is the first step to finding the perfect hair care routine for you! Read our guide "Discovering curl types and hair styles"
Heat Damage
Subjecting our hair to excessive heat damages the cuticle, creating more gaps for moisture to pass in and out through. It also gives our hair a positive ion charge which makes it rougher in texture and reduces shine. Cutting down on heat styling or turning down the temperature are simple solutions.
Using the Wrong Products
Two key ingredients can make frizz worse, and both start with the letter ‘S’. The first is sulphates, which are added to shampoos to make them foam but can dehydrate and strip your strands.
The second is silicones, which can be found in most conditioners. Silicones create a coating on the hair that’s great for short-term shine and sleekness but can build up and block nourishing ingredients from getting into the hair shaft over time, making it drier in the long run.
Rough Drying
When we rough dry our hair, either with a towel or a hairdryer, we displace the hair cuticles, making them stand on end rather than lying nice and flat. This extra friction, caused either by rubbing or strong airflow, is why you end up with a fluffy, coarse finish rather than a smooth, shiny one.
Bleaching
To colour your hair, either at home or in-salon, the cuticles have to lift to allow this shade shift to take place. In itself, that’s not a problem, but if you colour your hair a lot, or are going for an extreme change in hue (say from dark brunette to light blonde) then the cuticles don’t always close neatly afterwards. Bleach in particular is notoriously drying and is often to blame for a frizzy finish on blondes.
Steps to Take Before Drying for Frizz-Free Hair
How you dry your hair will have a huge impact on how frizzy your finished style is, but there are plenty of things you can do before you even pick up your diffuser. They include:
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Avoid sulphate and alcohol-free shampoos: as we’ve already mentioned, sulphates can dry out your strands, leading to frizz, and alcohol has very much the same effect. Check the ingredients list of your shampoo to ensure it doesn’t contain either of these common fluff-causing offenders.
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Invest in a good conditioner: curly hair isn’t naturally good at holding onto moisture, so conditioner is your opportunity to top up the oil and water that has been lost. If you’re finding your frizz is particularly stubborn, try doubling down and trade your regular conditioner for a thick, nourishing hair mask once a week.
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Finish washing with a cool rinse: after you’ve rinsed your conditioner out, change the temperature of your shower from warm to cold. This switch in Celsius will seal the hair cuticle, helping to prevent frizz. Notice that we said warm initially too rather than hot – washing your hair with scorching water will lead to dehydration.
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Only comb or brush when wet: the shape of curly hair makes it almost impossible to brush when dry without roughing up the cuticle or snagging at your strands. In the shower, when your hair is still wet and slippery from conditioner, is the opportune moment to detangle and smooth it. Working from the ends upwards is the gentlest approach and always use a wide-tooth comb or brush with bendy bristles rather than anything narrow.
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Apply heat protection: you’ll probably want to use some kind of heat on your hair, and that’s absolutely fine as long as you’re shielding it from damage. Think of heat protection sprays and lotions as the equivalent of SPF for your hair, adding a barrier that keeps your strands safe.
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Mix and match products: all curls are different, and what works for one person might not work for another. For frizz-free hair, you might find that curl cream, gel, oil, or mousse is the answer for you – or a combination of all of them. Focus on the wispy baby strands around the hairline, one of the most common spots for unwanted fluffiness.
Diffon Supreme: The Diffuser for Curly Hair to Achieve Frizz-Free Hair
One guaranteed way to achieve frizz-free hair? Using the Diffon Supreme, a dedicated diffuser for curly hair. If frizz is your nemesis, then you’ll be pleased to know that this tool is bursting with high-spec features to banish it for good.
First things first, it has a gentle power system and Digital Heat Control capabilities which work in perfect partnership to keep heat damage to an absolute minimum. You still have control over the settings, allowing you to adjust based on your hair type, with a choice of three temperatures and two speeds.
The Diffon Supreme also has the benefit of Ion Care Technology, which neutralises the positive ions caused by damage from things like excess heat and bleaching, delivering a soft, shiny finish instead of a rough frizzy one.
Last but not least, there’s an argan oil-infused coating on the head to reduce dryness, and the option of a cool shot to set your frizz-free finish in place.
