Finding that your hair frustratingly blends into one big cloud rather than nicely separated spirals? You’re in the right place to learn all about how to define curls.
The beauty of curly hair is that it can look completely different from one day to the next, but that’s not always ideal when you want to guarantee waking up to what you consider a good hair day. Convincing your curls to maintain separation and definition on wash day and beyond takes practice, perseverance and a fair amount of patience, but once you’ve nailed your routine it’ll quickly become second nature. Read on for our complete guide to the tips, techniques and tools you need for gorgeous defined curls every single day…
Step 1: Identify your curl pattern
To get the most from your curls, you need to take the time to get to know them. There are nine different types of curls, categorised from 2A to 4C. The number indicates the type of curl you have, so type 2 is wavy, type 3 is curly and type 4 is coily (also known as kinky or afro). Then there’s the lettering system, which references the width of your curls. So type A is the widest and loosest, type B is medium and type C is the smallest and tightest. The best time to decipher which curl type you have is when your hair is wet straight from the shower, as this is when the natural pattern of your hair will be most pronounced. Don’t worry if you seem to have more than one type of curl – this is perfectly normal, and most people will have two or more.
Once you have identified your curl pattern, you can consider the key characteristics of this hair type and how that might impact the way you style. For example, type 2A hair has a very loose pattern that can be straight at the crown with just a slight bend, which means you’re not going to be able to see much separation between the curls if you leave them to their own devices.
Instead, you’ll want to enhance the natural movement of 2A hair by using a diffuser in an upright position to boost volume and bounce and applying a product like hair mousse to encourage spring.
Looking for the best way to style your curls? Find all the best tips and tricks in our guide "All the steps for a perfect curl styling routine".
Step 2: Use the right products for curl styling
Applying the right products makes all the difference when mastering how to define curls. Before we dive in, it’s worth noting that nearly all hair products should be applied to curly hair when it’s wet, as this will allow you to smooth it through with a wide-tooth comb or bendy brush without disrupting your curls or causing frizz. The exception to this is any products that are aiming to smooth, treat or revive your curls between washes. Once you’ve distributed the product through your strands, you can then shape your spirals by coiling individual sections around your fingers or scrunching with your hands.
You may find that one type of product works well for your hair, or that you need to create a cocktail using a little bit of this and a little bit of that to get the flawless definition you’re after. There are two main reasons why your hair might be lacking in definition – one, because the natural pattern of your hair doesn’t fall in this way, and two, because the hair is dehydrated or damaged. When our curls are short on moisture or in need of repair, they end up frizzy and fluffy, creating a halo of rogue strands that distorts the finish of your curls rather than making them look beautifully separated. Products can help on both counts by persuading hair to take on and hold a curlier shape, as well as infusing the hair with nourishment. These are the key products for curly hair to have in your kit:
Leave-in conditioner
In-shower conditioners and hair masks are great, but they only have a short amount of time to transfer all of their goodness into your strands. A leave-in conditioner is therefore a great add-on, making sure that your strands can continue to soak up hydration long after you’ve left the shower. They come in cream and spray forms, the first of which is great for thick, dry hair and the second of which is a good choice for finer hair that’s easily overwhelmed by product.
Gel
A gel or jelly for curly hair will coat your strands, giving each individual curl extra definition. They’re also great for enhancing hold, so best scrunched through wet hair to help you maintain those gorgeous post-shower curls. If your hair is prone to frizz or static, gel will come in handy to smooth your roots and edges too. Keep in mind that gels can leave hair with a slight wet-look effect, so use sparingly if that isn’t for you.
Mousse
An old-school hair product that’s experienced a bit of a comeback in recent years, modern-day mousses are no longer going to leave your hair crispy and flaky. Instead, the whipped texture allows them to add body and bounce to your curls so they appear fuller. The more you use and the more you finger coil your hair after applying mousse, the more definition you’ll get.
Curl cream
Part leave-in conditioner, part styling product, curl cream creates a lightweight film on your hair to intensify the shape of your spirals at the same time as infusing them with moisture. They tend to be thinner in consistency than a gel, making them the smartest choice for fine hair that looks greasy quickly.
Oil
If your curls are naturally dry and struggle to hold onto moisture then hair oil is a must to seal in hydration – but this will only work if you apply it at the right time in your routine. Oils are occlusive, which means they do a great job of creating a coating that traps moisture in your hair. However, if you apply oil before you’ve applied your hydrating products like leave-in conditioner, then it’s going to form a barrier that stops this from getting in – making your hair drier in the long run. Oils can be applied to wet hair after washing and also between shampoos if you find your curls are lacking in definition or shine and need a little refresh.
Step 3: Master drying techniques
If you want to maintain maximum definition when learning how to define curls, you’ll want to use one, or ideally a combination, of the following hair-drying techniques:
Air drying
Leaving hair to dry naturally is a great way to encourage separation, as long as you prep first by scrunching and spiralling the hair when it’s wet and don’t play with it as it’s drying. The downside of air drying is that you’re less in control of the temperatures and humidity levels your hair is exposed to. It could be that in the summer your hair dries very quickly but the high water content in the air causes it to frizz, whereas in the winter it’s softer and silkier due to low humidity but dries at a much slower pace – leaving it in it’s most fragile state for longer.
Plopping
A popular technique in the curly hair community for speeding up drying time, plopping involves wrapping your curls in a microfibre towel to absorb excess moisture. You just need to be careful not to secure your towel too tightly as you might squish your curls. Also keep in mind that because you can’t see them, you can’t be sure that your curls are drying with your desired level of definition, so might be disappointed when you undo your wrap.
Diffusing
Diffusers can be used to dry curly hair straight out of the shower or, if you’re keen to keep the use of tools to a minimum, after a period of air drying or plopping. The brilliant thing about a diffuser compared to a traditional hairdryer is that it operates at low heat and speed settings, helping to preserve the curls you sculpted when your hair was wet, rather than blowing it all over the show and losing its definition. The gentle settings are also beneficial to the long-term health of your hair, so you can rest assured that using a diffuser isn’t going to spark split ends or frizz.
Diffon Supreme for the perfect definition of curly hair
If defined curls are your priority, the Diffon Supreme is the diffuser to invest in. The innovative curl booster system uses the combined action of a perforated grid for even and consistent airflow with 12 long finger-like nodules to carefully tease and shape even the most lacklustre of waves, curls and coils into enviable spirals. Digital heat control continuously maintains and regulates the temperature across the generous surface area as you use the tool, making sure it’s never hotter than necessary so all of your curls dry with their health and pattern intact. Finish with the cool shot to set your curls in place for impressive separation that lasts until your next wash.
