Although they’re often put in the same category, curly hair and wavy hair are two very different hair types.
To make curl types easier to define, the experts have separated them into three numbered categories. Type 2 is wavy, type 3 is curly and type 4 is coily. Next to each number then comes a letter ranging from A to C which indicates how tightly wound your waves, curls or coils are. Here, we will focus on type 2 wavy hair and type 3 curly hair.
Wavy hair is the closest relative to straight hair, which means it retains a lot of the smoothness and sleekness associated with this hair type – just with a bendier pattern. Type 2A waves are the loosest, with a very stretched out ‘S’ shape, 2B waves are more pronounced and beachier, while 2C waves are closest to a curl, with a tighter ‘S’ bend.
The key difference between curly and wavy hair is that curls have a spiral shape rather than a wiggly one – as if they’d been wrapped around your finger or a pencil. Type 3A curls are wide and bouncy, type 3B curls are narrower ringlets and type 3C curls are even tighter still, giving the hair plenty of body and dimension.
Read on for everything you need to know to work out if you have wavy hair or curly hair, plus how to care for and style your strands in line with their needs…
How to tell if you have wavy or curly hair
Not sure if your hair is wavy or curly? Here are three techniques to help you tell…
Study your hair pattern when wet
The bonds that form when our hair is dry break down when it gets wet, returning it to its natural state. If your strands are wiggly with a loose ‘S’ shape post-shower then your hair is wavy, and if they twist into spirals then your hair is curly.
The exception to this test is if you’ve had a semi-permanent or permanent hair treatment like a Brazilian blow dry or perm that has chemically altered the shape of your strands. In this case, you’ll have to wait until it grows or washes out to get a proper look at your natural hair pattern.
See how much shorter it looks when it’s dry
Curly hair is wound more tightly than wavy hair, causing it to spring upwards as it dries so it appears shorter than it actually is. If you look like you’ve had a trim by the time you’ve finished blow-drying, then your hair is probably curly. Keep in mind too that if your hair only has a slight natural wave to it then this can drop during the drying and styling process, leaving your hair straight and therefore looking longer than when wet. This won’t happen for curly hair.
Access the strength and porosity of your hair
The shape of wavy and curly hair has a knock-on effect on things like the strength and porosity of your strands. Due to its spiral shape, curly hair is more prone to breaking on the bends and is also more porous, as the cuticles that coat the strands can’t slot together as neatly as they can on straighter hair.
When there are gaps between the cuticles, moisture can escape, which is why curly hair is naturally drier. If your hair regularly snags and feels dry, it’s probably curly, and if it’s stronger and better at holding onto moisture, it’s wavy.
Identifying your exact curl type is the first step to finding the perfect hair care routine for you! Read our guide "Discovering curl types and hair styles".
Wavy vs curly hair: how to care for these two different hair types
Now you know whether you have wavy hair or curly hair, follow these helpful guides on how to wash, style and dry each hair type…
How to care for wavy hair
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Washing: Wavy hair needs to be washed more regularly than curly hair as one, it’s naturally better at retaining moisture, and two, the straighter shape makes it easy for oils to travel from the scalp down the hair shaft. To keep greasy roots and lacklustre lengths at bay, we recommend shampooing three times a week. Lather your hair upside down to encourage volume and follow with a nourishing conditioner to maintain softness and shine.
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Styling: Reach for products that help your waves hold onto their bendy pattern rather than loosen into a straight style. Mousses and gels are great for adding grip. It’s also a good idea to apply a leave-in conditioner for added moisture, just avoid anything too heavy or oil-based that could weigh the hair down. Remember, all hair products should be applied to wet hair, and this is the only time you comb or brush your waves too, with the help of a wide-tooth comb or bendy bristled brush. If you wait until the hair is dry to comb it you’ll brush out your waves, spark frizz and are more likely to snag your strands. After brushing or combing, scrunch the hair so your waves take on more bounce and movement.
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Drying: Waves can be left to air dry, but you’ll get the best results from using a diffuser. Use yours with your head upside down to boost volume at the roots, before pixie diffusing the lengths by gathering sections of hair into the bowl of the tool and holding it close to the scalp until dry. Once you’re ready to flip your head upwards again, move it from side to side as you set your style in place for added body.
How to care for curly hair
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Washing: We’ve already established that curly hair is naturally fragile and porous, and it’s also at its most vulnerable when wet. That’s why you don’t want to wash your hair more than is necessary, but equally, its shape and structure mean you shouldn’t feel the need to more regularly than once or twice a week. Most shampoos contain sulphates to help them lather, but these can strip much-needed moisture from the hair, so it’s best to swap to a sulphate-free option. Focus on massaging it into the roots rather than the lengths, as these will still reap the benefits as you rinse. Follow with a nourishing conditioner or hair mask to lock as much hydration and moisture into the hair as possible.
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Styling: The exact combination of products you use on your curly hair will depend on your priorities. If you want to add volume, use mousse, for definition, you’ll want a gel and for shine, a curl cream is best. Leave-in conditioners are a must to seal goodness into the hair and prevent it from drying out between washes. Just like with wavy hair, products should always be applied to curly hair when it’s wet and combed through with care. After this, you can twirl individual sections of your hair around your fingers to enhance and add spirals. The more effort you put in here, the easier you’ll make the drying process.
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Drying: Just like with wavy hair, you can air dry curly hair but diffusing will enable you to set your style in place properly and give you more control over the finished look. Focus on drying your roots first, as this is the least porous part of your hair and will take longer to dry. If you try and dry your entire head at once, you’ll either end up with damp roots at the end or unnecessarily overheating your lengths. Hover diffusing, where you hold the tool an inch or so away from your head, is a great technique for the roots if you’re worried about damage, or you can hold the diffuser to the scalp for speed. For the lengths, angling your tool upwards will give your hair lots of bounce and maximise the spring and elasticity of your curls. Keep the heat and temperature settings as low as possible, and use the cold shot to set it in place and banish frizz.
Bellissima Diffon Supreme for perfectly styled curly and wavy hair
Bellissima Diffon Supreme is the perfect tool for drying wavy and curly hair. It’s efficient and effective, rewarding you with gorgeous curls and waves in no time at all – without compromising the health of your hair. Low-speed settings are good for both wavy and curly hair, allowing you to set your hair exactly how you styled it when you got out of the shower rather than blowing out the shape and messing up the pattern. Reduced heat will suit both hair types too, minimising heat damage to keep frizz and fluffiness at bay. The finger-like nodules on the wide diffuser head help encourage movement, shape and definition on wavy hair, and can be used for separation and stretching out too-tight ringlets on curly hair. Thanks to the ergonomic design it’s easy to handle at all angles, allowing you to pivot between different techniques with ease. A must-try tool.
