Afro hair is uniquely beautiful, with a distinct texture that’s unlike other curl types. Its ‘Z’ shaped pattern is clearly defined in type 4A hair, less so in 4B coils and barely at all on type 4C. All afro hair is dense and voluminous, with a covetable cloud-like texture that grows outwards as well as down.
The only minor downside of this hair type is that the shape means your strands are pretty fragile. This is first because the wiggly pattern makes it more likely to break on the bends, and secondly, as the hair cuticles that coat each hair aren’t able to lie flat – allowing moisture to escape which leads to dryness and dehydration. Both of these can rob your afro hair style of things like volume, bounce and elasticity, leading to dull, lacklustre coils and the need to learn how to revive curly hair.
So, to make the most of your afro hair styles, and keep this hair type happy and healthy, you’ll want to understand how to care for it in the most delicate way possible. Ready to rethink your routine? Read on for everything you need to know about the wants and needs of afro hair styles…
Washing afro hair: Common challenges and solutions
As we’ve already mentioned, when you have afro hair and want to revive your curls, you need to be considerate at every part of the styling process – and that starts on wash day. Cleaning afro hair isn’t as simple as stepping under the shower, roughly slathering on some shampoo and hoping for the best. It requires a gentle, well-thought-out routine that takes the following into account…
Counteracting dryness
Afro hair is more prone to dryness than other hair types, and we don’t want to make matters worse when washing. The best way to do this is to add moisture at every step of your routine. Try to apply a gentle shampoo that doesn’t strip the natural oils from your scalp and a moisturising conditioner that can be upgraded to a nourishing mask every other week.
This approach should be continued post-shower too, with a leave-in conditioner for continued moisture, plus curl creams and oil to seal that in and help with styling. Just make sure you apply in order from lightest to heaviest to give water-based products a chance to absorb into your strands without being blocked by oilier ones.
Looking for a way to make your curls last longer between washes? Discover "The ultimate guide to keeping your curls looking great between washes".
Reducing product build-up
Oils and curl butters are great for afro hair, as they create an occlusive coating on the outside of your strands that seals in moisture and prevents dryness. The problem though is that they can cling to the hair and be stubborn to shift, generating build-up. This scenario is especially likely if you’re using a sulphate-free shampoo – something we would always recommend for afro hair. Sulphates are used in shampoos (as well as things like toothpaste and shower gel) to give them a satisfying lather, but are typically very harsh and can strip the hair. If your hair still feels coated in product after washing, then try shampooing twice.
Maintaining scalp health
Just like the skin on our faces, our scalps must be cleaned regularly to keep them balanced and remove the excess sebum, dead skin cells and product build-up that can accumulate on its surface.
The catch though is that to avoid over-processing afro hair or drying it out you only want to wash it once a week – twice max – which causes the scalp to suffer.
There are ways to make up for it though, so when you do wash your hair take the time to really work your shampoo into your scalp and give it a good massage.
This will encourage blood flow to the area, helping your coils to grow thicker and faster. If you’re experiencing itchiness or dryness, add a scalp scrub or mask to your routine to soothe irritation and banish flakes.
Avoiding damage
All hair types are most delicate when wet, so you need to treat your coils with the same care you would a cashmere jumper.
Tease out any tangles very gently – the best way to do this is by working upwards from the ends towards the root, which prevents you from snagging at the hair.
Tools-wise, use either a wide-tooth comb or a brush with bendy, well-spaced bristles that will flex with your curl pattern without snagging or catching. Never brush your coils when they’re dry.
How to revive curly hair? Styling tips for afro hair
Ok, we’ve covered washing afro hair, but what about styling it to revive curly hair? We’ve broken down the problems you might encounter post-shampoo with afro hair styles, plus the best ways to avoid each…
Lack of definition
The level of definition varies in afro hair, with type 4C curls having no clear pattern at all. If you want to create distinction between your coils try shaping them when they’re wet by spiralling around your fingers and applying products like curl gel to enhance separation. Circling the nodules on your diffuser head into your coils can also help, breaking them up instead of allowing them to merge.
Breakage
For springy, personality-packed coils you need to keep heat exposure to a minimum. High temperatures can be avoided altogether by leaving your hair to dry naturally or significantly reduced by drying with a dedicated diffuser tool rather than a standard hairdryer.
The benefits of a diffuser are that it will have been created with your hair type in mind, with lower wattage, speed and heat settings that won’t dehydrate your strands.
If you want to be even gentler, try hover diffusing, a technique where you hold the diffuser around 15cm away from your hair instead of directly onto it. You’ll still benefit from the heat and airflow of the tool but without any risk of overdoing it.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage, where your hair looks shorter when your curl pattern tightens as it dries, is a common gripe with afro hair. It’s a sign of elasticity and hair health but can be frustrating when it stops you from creating the finished look you hoped for.
If that sounds like you, try stretch diffusing, where you draw the finger-like nodules of the diffuser head downwards through your lengths when drying to elongate your coils and (as the name suggests) stretch them out.
Hair loss
Tight protective styles and weaves that create a lot of tension on your scalp can lead to traction alopecia, a common problem with afro hair that leads to bald patches.
Taking regular breaks from these sorts of afro hair styles will help give damaged hair time to recover and reduce the risk of it happening in the first place. It’s also important to protect your hair when its natural state by wrapping it with a silk scarf or turban overnight to prevent more tension and friction between your coils and the pillow.
How to achieve perfect afro hair styles with Diffon Supreme
Achieving perfect afro hair styles is easy when you’ve got the Diffon Supreme to hand. A premium solution for this hair type, it takes delicate drying seriously, with adjustable heat and speed settings, a gentle power system and digital heat control to consistently regulate and maintain an even temperature.
The combination of this three-pronged approach means there’s no need to compromise the health of your hair to create your finished style. The XL shape with enhanced surface area allows you to style large sections of hair at once, while the finger-like nodules make it possible to get in and amongst even the densest of coils.
Ion care technology neutralises positive ions in the hair for a shinier, softer finish while an argan oil coating infuses moisture into your strands to keep dryness at bay. All in all, a game-changer for afro hair styles.
